Fruitful hunting grounds for local restaurants and food stalls are the west end of Hai Phong and streets to the south of Hung Vuong, particularly Nguyen Chi Thanh. For a mid-morning snack, browse the little bakeries at the north end of Phan Chu Trinh. There are also a couple of decent bars where, amongst other things, you can quaff the local beers – Da Nang Export and Bière la Rue.
Apsara 222 Tran Phu. Prices are surprisingly reasonable at Danang’s flashiest restaurant, with mains on the seafood-centred menu starting at 60,000đ, and soups going for half that; for an interesting change, try the chao tom – ground shrimp roasted on sugar cane. A band plays traditional music every night from 7–8pm.
Bamboo Bar 230 Bach Dang. Shoot some pool at this small, friendly bar; popular with expats, it can get busy of an evening (open till 1am).
Christie’s Cool Spot 112 Tran Phu. This Japanese/Australian-owned bar and restaurant is where the small expat community likes to come and chat. If you suddenly have a craving for yakitori or tandoor chicken pizza, this is the place for you. You can eat at the bar or in the upstairs restaurant, where there’s also a small book exchange.
Greentown Café & Redstar Restaurant 50 Bach Dang. Overlooking the river, this schizophrenic venue is popular with locals and foreigners alike. The Greentown Café is an open-air pub with pool tables and outdoor seating, while the Redstar next door offers standard Vietnamese and Western food (pizza and pasta) but is most popular for the huge cinema screen outside that plays movies and football. Upstairs there is an excellent area overlooking the river.
Hana Kim Dinh 15 Bach Dang. Da Nang’s attempt at plush dining, a floating restaurant to the north of the Han Bridge, in a/c rooms or outside terraces. It’s not as expensive as it looks and the quality is good, a mix of Western and Asian foods, with fish specialities. Alternatively, settle back into one of the comfy cane chairs for a quiet coffee or early-evening drink.
Katynat Cafe 51 Nguyen Chi Thanh. The most appealing of a recent glut of youth-focused, wi-fi-friendly cafes; fruit juices and small meals are available, while women get everything half-price on Wed.
Kim Do 180 Tran Phu. This local favourite serves a broad range of Chinese cuisine, and provides comfortable, a/c dining with attentive service. The portions can be on the small side, but with a bit of care you can eat reasonably well for around 120,000đ per head.
Mien Trung 9 Bach Dang. Big, open-fronted riverside restaurant catering mostly to a local crowd. Minimal decor is offset by an extensive choice of reasonably priced Vietnamese dishes. You won’t leave hungry.
Tu Tai 62 Hai Phong. Cheap and cheerful street kitchen serving a mean com ga (chicken rice) and other rice dishes. If they’re full, try the noodles at Mi Quang across the street.
Viet Nam 53–55 Ly Tu Trong. It’s worth the walk to this excellent, popular eatery where well-prepared and well-priced Vietnamese dishes come in small, medium or large sizes. The fresh trout is highly recommended, as are the daily specials.